Chasing Amy-Lou

Siem Reap, Cambodia:

This morning I got to Vientiane airport early, only to find it was pretty much a shed and there was nowhere to get a decent coffee. And I needed coffee. Badly. After checking my bags in and scoping out the facilities in the domestic terminal (of which there were hardly any, aside from a makeshift hut that sold cartoned fruit juice that I subsequently found out tasted like dirt), I headed to the international terminal to get my flat white fix.

It was while sipping on probably the best coffee I’d had in Laos that I got chatting to a really lovely Aussie family. They’d been to Cambodia the week before, so naturally I began quizzing them about Siem Reap. Their advice was great and I enjoyed hearing their stories and seeing photos from their trip. They recommended me a tour guide for Angkor Wat and told me about a website called Backstreet Academy that focused on traditional cultural activities for those who were a little tired of mass market tourism: it sounded right up my alley! Alas, after checking out the website I was left disappointed (and more than a little pissed off at my poor financial planning). The activities listed on Backstreet Academy weren’t overly pricey but they were way above my budget which was a shame, as I think I would’ve enjoyed traditional bracelet making, basket weaving, wood carving or taking part in Bokator boxing classes. Anyway, it wasn’t the end of the world – I had Angkor Wat to look forward to; a relaxing few days in Kampot planned; a couple of nights in Phnom Penh; and then I had what I hoped would be the highlight of my trip – a week working as a volunteer for a charity association that helped Cambodia’s children. And if I could squeeze a yoga class or two in there as well, I’d be a happy bunny.

With positivity being my main aim and with a stoic determinism to not let my money situation get in the way of any fun, I finished my coffee and headed back to domestic departures.
The plane taking us to Siem Reap was hilarious – a Fisher Price looking vessel with propellers instead of jets, and only two seats on either side of the aisle. I had a little LOL to myself as I boarded, chuckling not only at the vehicle I was placing my life in the hands of for the next couple of hours, but at my situation in general. I’d been in South East Asia for almost a month, and in that time I’d done so many wonderful, character changing things; I’d participated in once in a lifetime opportunities, and I’d met many a like minded traveller, all of whom had helped to accentuate my experiences. And I felt lucky; lucky and genuinely spoiled. I didn’t know if this paper plane was going to get me to Siem Reap in one piece, but as One Direction blared out of the cabin speakers, my body poised to bop along to the rhythm, I knew I was going to have fun along the way. They say it’s the little things in life that can inspire happiness – and hearing this song (a song that reminded me of home and stupid times with friends), chatting to the Aussie family in the airport lounge, and generally feeling blessed to be leading such a liberated life, filled me with positivity. Cambodia was gonna be great. I could feel it in my bones.

I landed in Siem Reap at around 2pm. The visa on arrival desk was nothing like the one in Ho Chi Minh. There were no queues, there was no anxious or fretful atmosphere; and I zoomed through with no problems at all – boom, another stamp to add to the passport collection!

Arriving at my Hostel I was checked into an eight bed mixed dorm which usually isn’t a problem for me, yet the minute I opened the door, a wave of nauseousness and unease spread throughout my body. The room was a mess. And there were semi-comatose sunburnt youngsters lying on most of the beds; none of them looked over 25 and none of them looked like they’d be up for participating in any of the cultural activities I had planned. I was bunking in with a bunch of pissed-up teenagers who looked like they’d just stepped out of an episode of Boozed Up Brits Abroad. I shuddered.

Feeling a little emotional, and not wanting to sleep or leave my belongings in a room I felt uncomfortable in, I returned to reception to enquire about switching. Luckily, the all female dorm had beds free and for an extra 3 USD one of them became mine for the next three nights. It was perfect. Sharing with a gorgeous German girl (we’ll call her Germany), and a sweet American chic (let’s call her North Carolina), I immediately felt relaxed. And when my Dutch friend from Vang Vieng arrived (I guess she can be called Dutchie), I couldn’t have been happier.

As a foursome we headed out to Pub Street (a hectic, vibrant, noisy street in central Siem Reap that could easily be compared to a strip you’d find in Magaluf…just without the beach) for some food and cheap beer. Everything in Siem Reap seemed to cost a dollar – a dollar for beer, a dollar for street food, a dollar for a pair of sunglasses; and if you were really good at bartering, a dollar for a happy ending massage! I didn’t have that many dollars to spend, but when we found a place that sold beer for 50 cents, well, I decided that maybe, just for one night, I could let my hair down a little.