In stark contrast to Brussels and harbouring a completely different character altogether, Ghent felt peaceful, less dull, less monstrous, and more welcoming, more humble, more picturesque. A short train ride north-west of Brussels and costing less than nine euros, Ghent sits in the Flemish region of Belgium and is the capital of East Flanders.
As soon as I got off the train and made my way to meet my friend Pieter, I knew I liked Ghent. It felt small, it felt intimate and it also felt safe. Just as Myriam had on my first day in Brussels, Pieter proceeded to show me around the place he called home. It didn’t disappoint. From quaint little buildings, to graffiti covered walls, to intricately designed house fascias to castles and turrets and oddly designed and randomly placed sculptures; to a bridge where three rivers meet, to large open spaced squares where festivals are held in the summer, to a vibrant shopping district, Ghent appeared to have it all in one tiny little space that could be walked round in no more than an hour or so. And churches, I must not forget the churches, as of course, Ghent has them in abundance.
In what felt like a 1000m radius there were churches on every corner. I just couldn’t escape them. The marvellous St-Jakobskerk, with its three steeples, towered close to the Vlas Markt where annual festivals take place, and it seems, you can party here even without the need of a festival.
Travel in almost a full circle from St-Jakobskerk, over the major canal traversing the city and you’ll find yourself at St-Michiels Church, situated on St Michiels Plein, just south of the grand Castle or Gravensteen. We then walked the short distance back over the canal again to St-Niklaaskerk which presides next to the Stadshal or City Hall. From here we could see the Belfort and behind that the magnificent St Baafskathedraal, a wonderful sight, even for the non-religious.
But enough about churches (although it’s quite difficult as they do tend to dominate the landscape in Belgium), what I’d really come to Ghent for was the food and the drink. We made our way back to the City Hall where dozens of Christmas Market stalls had been erected as well as a big wheel (which I went on) and other amusements for children. Pieter urged me to sample the delights Ghent had to offer at this festive time so I sampled the chocolate and the sausages, the cheese and the wine, the hot pot and of course the waffles….oh the waffles, what an absolute sweet-toothed treat! Deliciously moreish and sugary and scrumptious. I could’ve spent all day just eating waffles.
However, there wasn’t time for that, there were other things to see and do and we made our way to the castle where for eight euros we took a look around the fantastically preserved piece of history, climbing to the top and looking out over the turrets before descending into the prison dungeons.
Upon exiting the castle, we saw there was a boat trip ready to leave so we jumped aboard and for 40 minutes or so were treated to a narrated history of Ghent and its canals. The boat took us past the castle and meandered under bridges, before allowing us to see the beauty of some of Ghent’s buildings and houses as well as the tiny museums tucked away down some of its quiet side streets. Despite being very interesting, I couldn’t shake the cold so was somewhat delighted when Pieter told me we were to visit his favourite drinking hole where I could sample some REAL Belgian beer, not the rubbish I’d had in Brussels.
Ratz is situated on Schouwburgstraat, just opposite the huge and invading Palace of Justice and is a tiny little bar with the friendliest bar staff and the strongest beer I’ve ever come across. It was here we met Peter and a few of Pieter’s other friends and before you could say, “give me some of that tasty looking sausage hanging from the wall behind the bar”, I was pretty drunk. Drunk but decidedly warm. Something told me the Belgian beer didn’t quite agree with me.
It was here that this part of my Belgian story ends for the next day we would take the train to Bruges for the highlight of my trip.
Having spent time in Brussels and Ghent, with people who really know the cities, I can honestly say that my impressions of Belgium were very positive. My preferences leaning sightly more towards Ghent, due to its cosy character and warming atmosphere, I would not hesitate to visit again…possibly in the summer though, when it was warm.
To be continued…
Chasing Amy-Lou 